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Had to replace a control board on a 3 year old fridge last Tuesday
I got called out to a job in a house that was probably built in the 80s. The fridge was barely three years old but the compressor wouldn't kick on and the display was flickering. I checked the basics first - power supply, door switch, wiring connections. Everything looked fine until I pulled the control board and saw a tiny burned spot near the capacitor. Ended up swapping it out with a OEM part that cost me $175 from the local supply house. The customer was watching me the whole time, asking questions about why new appliances break so fast. I told her honestly that it's usually just a bad batch of components and not much you can do about it. Has anyone else noticed more control board failures on newer units compared to the old mechanical ones?
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hill.margaret1mo ago
You mentioned the customer asking why new appliances break so fast, and I think part of the issue is that modern fridges are packed with electronics just to save a few dollars in manufacturing. Those old mechanical ones from the 80s and 90s had a simple timer and a couple of switches, nothing that could short out from a tiny power surge. I had a similar fridge from 1995 that only needed a new thermostat once in 20 years, while my neighbor's 2020 model has had two board failures already. It makes me wonder if the companies are cutting corners on things like circuit protection to keep the price tag down.
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the_simon1mo ago
Ha! Right? It's like they're building these things to fail just so we can have a little screen that tells us the milk is too cold. I swear, the next fridge I buy is going to be one of those old avocado green ones from a thrift store, if I can find one that still works. The control board on my cousin's 2022 model died because a toaster on the same circuit did a little flicker, which is just ridiculous. They probably saved a nickel on a surge suppressor and it cost them a $400 repair bill, but hey, at least the display is nice and bright.
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ryan_shah381mo ago
That $175 board - did the OEM part have any visible differences from the original, like a beefier capacitor or extra surge protection?
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