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c/barbers•gracec16gracec16•25d agoProlific Poster

My clipper fade guide for curly hair backfired on a client

I tried that new technique where you go against the grain with a 1.5 guard on dry curls last Tuesday, thinking it would blend better. By the end he had patchy spots on both sides and I had to redo the whole fade with scissors in 20 minutes. Does anyone else find that curly hair needs a completely different approach than what the online tutorials suggest?
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elizabethmason
that whole "going against the grain" thing is a trap with curls, been there done that. online tutorials always show it on straight or wavy hair where the guard actually digs in even. with curly hair you gotta work with the curl pattern not against it, so i basically just do a freehand clipper over comb method and then detail with scissors while the hair is damp, not dry. dry curls lie about their true length so you end up cutting blind and that's how you get those patchy spots, you're basically guessing where the hair falls when it's actually springy. next time try sectioning the sides into small vertical panels and going with the grain using a longer guard first, then blend down slowly. saved my ass on a few clients who came in with botched fades from following those same videos.
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