Torque spec feedback from a retired racer had me second guessing my whole approach
He told me I was over-torquing carbon posts to stop slipping when the real fix was greasing the clamp interface, so now I'm torn between following factory numbers to the letter or trusting his 30 years of shop floor wisdom, anyone else get advice that flipped their standard procedure?
The "greasing the clamp interface" thing is real and it took me years to accept it. I was cranking my seatpost clamp way past spec trying to stop it from slipping, and a guy at my local shop finally showed me that a little carbon paste on the post and grease on the bolt threads does more than raw torque ever will. Factory numbers exist for a reason but they assume clean, dry, perfect conditions, which is basically never what you have on a real bike. The old guys learned by breaking stuff and figuring out why, so their workarounds usually have some truth behind them even when they sound wrong on paper. I still start at spec now, but I stopped treating it like gospel.